Cook the seasons

Twelve months, twelve short lists. What is worth buying, what to do with it, and what can wait until next year.

Start with this month
Produce stacked at a market stall

Buy better

A short list each month of what is actually good, rather than what is merely available.

A chef knife on a board

Cook simply

Most seasonal produce wants heat, salt, fat and restraint. Usually in that order.

Loaves cooling on a rack

Waste less

The second meal from the same ingredient is usually the better one.

Good right now

Good right now — September

Miso-glazed aubergine

35 min 2 servings 220°C / 430°F

  • 1 aubergines , halved, scored
  • 1 1/2 tbsp white miso
  • 1 tbsp mirin
  • 1/2 tbsp caster sugar
  • 1/2 tbsp sake
  • 1 tbsp neutral oil
  • 1/2 tbsp sesame seeds , toasted
  1. Heat the oven to 220°C. Score the cut faces in a diamond, oil them heavily and roast cut-side down until collapsing.
  2. Simmer the miso, mirin, sugar and sake for two minutes until glossy.
  3. Turn the aubergines, spoon the glaze over and grill until blistered and dark at the edges.
  4. Scatter sesame. Eat hot or warm, not cold.

Questions we get

For baking, yes, and it is not close. For everything else, no.

Use the serving stepper on any recipe. It rescales the quantities properly rather than just dividing the header.

Because 125g of flour is 125g of flour, and a cup of flour is anywhere between 110g and 145g depending on who packed it.